DIRECTIONS
Boil a saucepan or kettle of water. Put the noodles into a large heatproof bowl, then pour over enough just-boiled water to cover. While you wait, cut the tofu into cubes about ¾-inch across. Crush the garlic and thinly slice the scallions. Pick the leaves from the cilantro.
Put a large nonstick skillet, frying pan, or wok over medium-high heat. Add the oil, then the tofu. Fry for 6 minutes, stirring frequently, or until the tofu is golden all over. Lift the tofu onto paper towels using a slotted spoon. This will absorb any excess oil.
Meanwhile, put the tamarind paste, chili sauce, fish sauce, and sugar into a small pitcher and stir together. Coarsely chop the peanuts, if using. Crack the eggs into a bowl and loosely beat them with a fork.
Put the pan back over high heat. It shouldn’t need more oil. Add the shrimp and fry for 2 minutes, until they turn completely pink. Now add the garlic, chili flakes, and half the scallions. Cook for a few seconds, stirring, until the garlic and scallions smell fragrant.
Transfer the shrimp to a plate, then add the beaten eggs to the pan. Cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, moving the eggs around the pan a little with a wooden spoon until just set, like an omelet.
Lift the omelet out of the pan and transfer it to a cutting board. Roll it up like a pancake, then cut across the roll to make long thin strips. Take the pan off the heat if you feel you need to concentrate on this part.
Return the pan to the heat, drain the noodles, and add them to the pan. Add the sauce, most of the cilantro leaves, the shredded egg, tofu, shrimp, the remaining scallions, and a squeeze of lime juice, then toss well.
For an authentic look, serve the peanuts and bean sprouts in little piles alongside the noodles, then sprinkle with the rest of the cilantro. Cut the remaining lime into wedges and put a wedge on each plate.